Thanks. Another prime number, which means a good year. Cool and damp today but #138 did manage a quick blast in the twilight to blow out a few cobwebs and keep the brakes clean. Always a real joy to get back behind the wheel. Real go-kart feel compared to everything else, a really V8 Lotus!
In January, in the US North East, when you get a days rain to wash away the salt, and then a dry above freezing day, it's called Drive Your Spyker Day.
The ritual includes washing it down afterwards to get rid of any stray salt, and drying it indoors and resting it before the next time...
image_17296.jpg Here's the sticker.... inaccurate as it didn't have dunlop tires nor the aeroblade steering wheel to begin with... soft top seems good value compared to the other options.
I noticed the mesh in one of the front fenders was lower than the other side - like it had become unattached; so I removed the wheel arch liner and found it had become unattached from the metal fender.
Seems the mesh is bolted to studs that are glued to the fender, then the liner bolts to the frame inside the fender. The glued bolts have all detached. Seems a strange way to do it - why not attach the mesh to the liner.
Not sure whether to try to glue again, or try to attach to the liner... any ideas?
Hi Marrhew,
Perhaps reattaching with epoxy like the original would be best. There is an epoxy putty roll that can be purchased at the hardware store and it has a catalyst embedded in the center of it. Just cut pieces off the roll and work the putty until the catalyst is spread throughout the piece of putty. Then reapply the putty pieces to the studs and fender by pressing in place. Make sure the mesh is properly aligned, because once the putty is set, you won't be able to make any adjustments without ruining the mesh. I've done this before on another car and it held perfectly.
I would avoid anything where heat is necessary (like welding) because it would ruin the paint on the fender.
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