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Old 06-03-2017, 04:23
Scott Triplitt's Avatar
Scott Triplitt Scott Triplitt is offline
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For the sailors among us

Hi guys,

Very simple article addressing the basic physics of sailing.

http://www.real-world-physics-proble...f-sailing.html
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Old 11-03-2017, 07:17
Scott Triplitt's Avatar
Scott Triplitt Scott Triplitt is offline
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Location: California
Posts: 351
Work Instructions

Hi Guys,

For those mechanically minded piston heads and sailors who need to replace the macerator pump in their 880 horsepower PCS Fast Trawlers, below are the Work Instructions. I couldn't obtain any from the manufacturer, so I wrote my own. Hope these will be helpful:

Work Instructions for Replacing the Jabsco Macerator Pump

Below are the work instructions for removal and replacement of the macerator pump on a Pacific Seacraft 38T Fast Trawler with an air conditioning/ heating unit. The Jabsco macerator pumps are notorious for leaking where the hex head bolts secure the intake flange to the motor housing, thus requiring replacement of the pump.

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
One (1) Jabsco macerator pump, Model # 18590-2092, 12 volt

TOOLS REQUIRED:
Long shaft flathead screwdriver
Short shaft Phillips screwdriver
Small ratchet with extension and 1/4" socket
Electrical crimping tool

MATERIALS REQUIRED:
Two (2) 14-16 AWG female electrical connector plugs
One (1) foot of electrical tape
One (1) once of silicon grease
One (1) cotton swab for applying the silicon grease
One (1) wooden thru hull plug for plugging the macerator pump's discharge line
One (1) half gallon of bleach for cleaning up waste
One (1) dozen pairs of disposable plastic gloves
Four (4) large plastic trash bags

LABOR HOURS REQUIRED
Removal and installation = 6 hours
Clean-up hours depend on how much waste escapes from the white 1 1/2" waste hose

REMOVAL PROCESS

1) Make sure that the 1 1/2" stainless steel valve which attaches to the white 1 1/2" waste hose that connects to the intake (aft side) of the macerator pump is in the closed position (perpendicular to the valve).

2) Unscrew the two Phillips head screws on the port side of the macerator pump's mounting bracket. Access the screws through the opening under the air conditioning unit platform. Do not unscrew the two screws on the starboard side of the mounting bracket that fasten the bracket's grommets to the mounting platform. They can remain in place because the mounting bracket holes that house the rubber grommets are of an open confuguration, allowing the bracket to slide into the slots of the grommets.

3) Loosen the two hose clamps that secure the black 1" discharge hose that is located on the port side of the macerator pump. They are both hard to reach. Use a small, long shaft flathead screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp that is closest to the pump body. Use a small ratchet with an extension and a 1/4" socket to loosen the other hose clamp. To access this clamp, reach into and across the opening under the air conditioning unit platform.

4) Next, place a plastic bag over the equipment under the air conditioning unit's platform to minimize the amount of clean-up that will be required when the black 1" discharge hose and the white 1 1/2" waste hose are disconnected from the macerator pump.

5) Reach into and across the opening under the air conditioning unit platform to disconnect the black 1" discharge hose from the macerator pump. It is hard to remove, so rotate the hose while pulling on it. There will be very little waste that comes out of this hose. However, plug it with a wooden thru hull plug to minimize any leakage.

6) Reach into and across the opening under the air conditioning unit platform and pull the macerator pump and its mounting bracket towards you, away from the rubber mounting grommets on the port side of the pump.

7) To gain better access to the macerator pump for removal of the white 1 1/2" waste hose and the pump's electrical connectors, carefully pull the pump with its mounting bracket towards you and through the electrical wire bundles that surround the pump. There is enough lead in the electrical wires to allow the pump to be pulled out from its mounting platform. Remove the electrical tape from the small wire bundle that houses the 14-16AWG connector plugs and unplug them from the macerator pump.

8) Have a plastic bag ready to place over the open end of the white 1 1/2" waste hose once the hose is disconnected from the macerator pump. Loosen the two hose clamps that secure the white 1 1/2" waste hose to the intake flange of the macerator pump. NOTE: This is where it can get really nasty and is why it is very important that the 1 1/2" stainless steel valve stipulated in Step 1 is closed and that the plastic bag is placed over the disconnected hose as soon as possible.

9) There are two methods that can be used to disconnect the white 1 1/2" waste hose. The proven method is to disconnect the HOSE from the macerator pump. The alternative method is to disconnect the MACERATOR PUMP from the hose. The alternative method has not been proven, but will be detailed below and will be tried during the inevitable replacement of the macerator pump.

For the proven method, ask another person to hold the macerator pump steady while you disconnect the white 1 1/2" waste HOSE from it. Disconnect the hose by rotating the hose while pulling on it. Once the hose gives way, quickly place a large plastic bag over the open end of the hose so the waste inside it does not get all over everything! Place the old macerator pump in a plastic bag and discard it.

Using the alternative method, ZipTie a large plastic bag over the macerator pump and 6" over the open end of the white 1 1/2" waste hose where it connects to the pump flange. Then, to hopefully preclude the leaking of waste material, ZipTie another large plastic bag over the first plastic bag. After the bags are secure, raise-up the white 1 1/2" waste hose and the macerator pump as far aft as possible. Since the hose is rigid, be careful not to raise it too high to preclude putting too much stress on the joint where the hose attaches to the holding tank. Next, ask someone to hold the white 1 1/2" waste hose while you rotate the MACERATOR PUMP from the outside of the plastic bags. Rotate the pump back and forth and pull on it until the pump is disconnected. Once the pump is disconnected from the waste hose, release it gently into the bag. NOTE: Release it gently into the bags to preclude punching a hole in the bags and thus, creating a mess. Theoretically, the waste and pump will remain in the bag, precluding a time consuming clean-up.

10) Once the white 1 1/2" waste hose is disconnected from the macerator pump, clean-up the spilled waste and bleach the affected areas and prepare for the installation of the new macerator pump.

INSTALLATION PROCESS

11) First, install 14-16 AWG female electrical connector plugs to the red and black wires of the new macerator pump and install the round rubber cover that comes with the pump over the screw at the back of the pump.

12) Next, carefully slide the new macerator pump and its mounting bracket through the electrical wire bundles that are in front of the platform to which the macerator pump will be mounted.

13) Then, slide the starboard side of the mounting bracket into the slots of the two rubber mounting grommets. (These are the two grommets that remained on the mounting platform when you removed the macerator pump in Step 2.) Again, make sure that the mounting bracket is positioned in the slots of the grommets.

14) Next, insert two of the rubber grommets that came with the new pump onto the port side of the pump's mounting bracket by reaching into and across the opening under the air conditioning unit platform. Secure the macerator mounting bracket and rubber grommets with two screws and their washers.

15) Connect the electrical wires of the macerator pump to the boat's house wires (red to red and black to black). Turn on the macerator switch to briefly test to make sure the pump is operational. Once the pump is operational, wrap the small wire bundle that houses the connectors with electrical tape.

16) Next, apply silicon grease to the flange on the port side of the macerator pump. Then, push and rotate the 1" black hose onto the pump's flange. Tighten the two hose clamps. By reaching through the wire bundles in front of the macerator pump, use a long shaft flathead screwdriver to tighten the hose clamp that is closest to the pump. To access the other clamp, reach into and across the opening under the air conditioning unit platform and use a small ratchet with an extension and a 1/4" socket to tighten this clamp.

17) Next, apply silicon grease to the non-threaded portion of the intake flange of the macerator pump. The white 1 1/2" waste hose will mount to this portion of the flange. (The hose does not go over the threaded portion of the flange.) Ask someone to hold the macerator pump steady while you push and rotate the hose until it fully covers the mounting flange to which the silicon grease was applied. Tighten the two hose clamps.

18) Make sure that the black round cover on the forward end of the macerator pump has remained in place during the installation process and that the macerator's mounting bracket is still in the slots of the grommets.

Congratulations, you have now completed the installation!
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Last edited by Scott Triplitt; 11-03-2017 at 07:23.
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  #3  
Old 11-03-2017, 18:52
Laviolette GT2R's Avatar
Laviolette GT2R Laviolette GT2R is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Triplitt View Post
I couldn't obtain any from the manufacturer, so I wrote my own. Hope these will be helpful
Great job! Maybe you can write some of the Spyker Work Instructions that I am still missing!
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Old 11-03-2017, 19:19
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F Spider F Spider is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laviolette GT2R View Post
Great job! Maybe you can write some of the Spyker Work Instructions that I am still missing!
What are you missing?
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  #5  
Old 11-03-2017, 19:51
Scott Triplitt's Avatar
Scott Triplitt Scott Triplitt is offline
Spyker Owner #228
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: California
Posts: 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laviolette GT2R View Post
Great job! Maybe you can write some of the Spyker Work Instructions that I am still missing!
Hi Stephan,

Roger that! Sounds like an opportunity to get into the publishing business, making it possible for Spyker owners to properly maintain their vehicles in the absence of any factory authorized manuals. Like any publication, the manual would preclude Spyker owners from having to employ their own trial and error techniques when maintaining their vehicles and at the same time, help preclude potential reliability and safety issues. I could even include pictures in the manuals to help everyone out.

After completion, I'll submit the manual to the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) for recommendations and approval since it oversees voluntary standards for processes and systems in the US and also coordinates standards internationally. With international certification, Spyker owners outside the US might also be interested in the publication.

I'll keep you posted on my progress.
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